Journey through the "Heroic City" to the site of one of Peru's most significant battles. We dive into the historical weight of the Alto de la Alianza, the beauty of its museum, and a personal tip on how to make a few four-legged friends during your desert excursion.

The Golden Hour Cure: A Morning Walk and a Hidden Apothecary in Old Montevideo

La Farmacia Café (The Pharmacy Cafe). Stepping inside was like walking into a time capsule that had been gently hijacked by a modern barista.

The bones of the old apothecary were completely intact. Floor-to-ceiling dark wood shelving lined the walls, packed not with coffee bags, but with antique glass jars bearing handwritten Latin labels for mysterious tinctures and powders. The original marble counter, cool to the touch, was still there, only now it supported a gleaming, state-of-the-art espresso machine instead of a mortar and pestle.

The juxtaposition was brilliant. It smelled of rich roasted beans, but it felt like a place of quiet remedies.

I ordered a cortado and a croissant, taking a seat near the window to watch the city finally start to wake up.

The coffee was exceptional—smooth, strong, and precisely what the morning required. But the croissant was the real surprise. In this city known more for its sweeter, denser medialunas, this was a masterclass in French baking: shatteringly flaky on the outside, impossibly buttery and airy on the inside.

Sitting there, surrounded by the ghosts of old pharmacists and the aroma of fresh espresso, was the perfect end to the morning walk.

If you find yourself in Montevideo, set your alarm. The sleep you lose is worth the atmosphere you gain. And if you find that little pharmacy cafe in the old town, order the croissant. It’s the best prescription for a perfect day.